To get a gardenia into a bottle the old way, you have to kill the gardenia. Pick it, then drive the scent out with heat or pull it out with solvent. Both rewrite what they capture. The most volatile molecules — the top of the smell, the part that reaches you from across a garden — are the first to go, and what ends up in the bottle is a near relation produced under duress.
Roman Kaiser spent a career at Givaudan on the alternative. Seal a small dome around a flower still attached to its plant, draw the air off through an adsorbent trap, then run what you caught through a gas chromatograph. Nothing is picked. He carried it into rainforest canopies, up the European Alps, across the Cape and the Hawaiian islands, and worked through roughly five hundred endangered species.
No part of that stores a smell. What comes back is a list: these compounds, in these proportions. Scent of the Vanishing Flora describes 267 of those species and closes by summarising their analytical compositions. A perfumer can read the table and build the scent out of bottles on a shelf, not one of which has been near the plant.
I keep turning over what kind of record that is. A pressed flower is the thing itself, dead. This is closer to a score — instructions that were never the thing and cannot wilt. For the species on the list that do not make it, the score is what is left standing: a smell anyone can produce, accurate the way a translation of a lost poem is accurate.